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Happy Thanksgiving!

May your turkeys be moist, your pies be creamy and delicious, and mist of all, may your day be filled with family and friends.

Posted via LjBeetle

Fun With Cording

So, yay! I'm to the cording stage! Sadly, this is also where I hit my hit snag. I should start by saying that I probably should have done the cording before I assembled the pieces, buy yeah.......
I got the busk pocket all nicely corded, followed by 2 bust gores. It was looking snazzy. Then I went to lay down my first row of horizontal cording and found that I had almost an inch of extra fabric in my top layer. No way was it cling to shrink that much. After much Jennings and hawing, I ripped out two hip gussets and reseamed two seams. It all lines up a lot better now and I made progress on actually getting some cords in. See:

Now, to finish breaking my fast and see if I can lay down a couple more rows before work.

Posted via LjBeetle

13 Gussets

3 to go.


The busk isn't here yet, but I remembered that Laci's had the dimensions listed on the site, so I was able to mark my pocket. With that done, I got the interlining and
outer layers stitched up, and am now in the process of inserting the last of the gussets. Then I'll get the cording pattern marked and start the fun.

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Testing, testing.....

I've gotten 12 of the 16 gussets in. The last 4 go in the seams, so they will wait until I get to the assembly stage.
This brings me to the cording. I took a few minutes to do a couple of tests.

On the left, I've taken my 3 ply cotton cord apart and used one strand for each row.


The right is 3 rows of the cord as it comes.


I like the stiffness if the 3 ply, but it's just way too thick.  So, I'll be using the one ply.  Do you think it would look too weird if I used 3 ply along the seams and single ply everywhere else?  I'm especially wanting the stiffness at the back opening, so regardless of looks, I think I'll use it there at least.


I also ordered a busk from Lacies.  It should be here soon I hope. I need it so I can mark my busk pocket and then get my cording pattern laid out.

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Cording Contemplation

I took a break from stitching the gussets tonight so I could let my fingers rest and images drew up a very primitive cording plan.


Based mostly on the Christies pair of stays:


This is what I've come up with:

The stays themselves are a bit curvier than what I've drawn here, so hopefully I can get those straight lines to translate over.  I'm hoping I haven't been too ambitious.....
Other than the busk, there will be no bones.  I figure if the cording around the back eyelets doesn't do the trick, I can always replace it with cane or steel.

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Halfway there

8 more gussets to go, then on to the cording. My fingers hurt already.

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Gusset Count

6 down, 10 to go.  Was stitching away in the Starbucks this morning.   The group of guys sitting next to me kept staring, not sure why.


Done for the night. I've got the next 6 prepped and ready to go. The last 2 gussets get inserted into the seams, so those will wait until assembly starts. Now I need to start drawing out cording patterns to see which I like best, and more importantly, what I can realistically accomplish.

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2 Down

14 to go.  For real this time. No, it did not take me 3 hours to insert one gusset, even though I am the slowest hand sewer in the world.  I spent a bit of time looking up pics of long stays.  I know I had some bookmarked on the old computer, but due to virus issues, I didn't transfer them over to the lap top.  So, now the hunt is on again.
These are the ones I've managed to find so far:

An absolutely gorgeous example from the V&A.

More under the cut......Collapse )

Gusset count

As of 5:33pm 1 gusset down, 14 to go. Just keep sewing, just keep sewing.....

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I've got all the bits for the stays cut out.  Because I plan on cording these I cut the outer layer one size larger, so as to have room for the cording.  But now I face a dilemma.  When sewing in the gussets, should I place them to match the other layers, (which are one size smaller and the size that fits), or put them in at the marked placement for the larger size?
Any input would be much appreciated.

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